Skincare Ingredients for Anti-Ageing: What the Evidence Shows
Introduction
Skin changes with age due to a combination of natural processes and external factors such as sun exposure, smoking, and pollution. Certain ingredients have been studied for their ability to improve fine lines, pigmentation, texture, and overall skin quality. These can be found in skincare formulations and in medical-grade chemical peels performed by trained health professionals.
This article explains some key ingredients used for anti-ageing, what they do, and the evidence behind them.
Retinoids (Vitamin A Derivatives)
How they work: Retinoids (e.g. tretinoin, adapalene, retinol) promote faster cell turnover and stimulate collagen.
Evidence: Retinoids are one of the most studied ingredients for photoaging, showing improvements in fine lines, pigmentation, and roughness (Mukherjee et al., Clin Interv Aging, 2006).
Targets: Fine lines, uneven pigmentation, photodamage.
Use in peels: Retinoic acid may be used in some medical-grade peels.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) & Glycolic Acid
How it works: Small molecule AHA, penetrates deeply, exfoliates outer skin layers and stimulates collagen.
Evidence: Improves photodamage and fine lines in controlled trials (Ditre et al., J Am Acad Dermatol, 1996).
Targets: Fine lines, pigmentation, rough texture.
Use in peels: Widely used for superficial to medium-depth peels.
Lactic Acid
How it works: Larger molecule than glycolic acid, provides gentle exfoliation and hydration.
Evidence: Improves skin smoothness and mild pigmentation (Stiller et al., Dermatol Surg, 1996).
Targets: Dryness, mild wrinkles, uneven tone.
Use in peels: Common in superficial peels, often for sensitive skin.
Mandelic Acid
How it works: Larger molecule → slower penetration → reduced irritation.
Evidence: Effective for acne and pigmentation, with good tolerability (Dayal et al., J Cosmet Dermatol, 2020).
Targets: Acne-prone skin, pigmentation, sensitive or darker skin.
Use in peels: Suitable for sensitive or melanin-rich skin.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) & Salicylic Acid
How it works: Oil-soluble, penetrates pores, removes sebum and dead cells.
Evidence: Improves acne and overall skin texture (Kessler et al., Dermatol Surg, 2008).
Targets: Acne, oily skin, blocked pores.
Use in peels: Common in acne-targeted peels.
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
How they work: Gentle exfoliation, antioxidant activity, and hydration.
Evidence: Improve mild photoaging and suitable for sensitive skin (Buchanan et al., Dermatol Surg, 2004).
Targets: Sensitive skin, mild ageing, hydration.
Use in peels: Used in very superficial, low-irritant formulations.
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid
How it works: Antioxidant, protects against oxidative stress, supports collagen.
Evidence: May improve pigmentation and fine lines (Telang, Indian Dermatol Online J, 2013).
Targets: Pigmentation, uneven tone, photodamage.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
How it works: Improves barrier function, reduces pigmentation, regulates oil.
Evidence: Reduces fine lines, redness, and hyperpigmentation in clinical studies (Bissett et al., Dermatol Surg, 2005).
Targets: Uneven tone, redness, fine lines, barrier support.
Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA)
How it works: TCA is a caustic agent that causes controlled injury to the skin, stimulating regeneration and collagen remodelling as it heals.
Evidence: TCA peels have been used for decades in dermatology and are effective for photodamage, wrinkles, pigmentation, and acne scarring (Hettiarachchi et al., J Cutan Aesthet Surg, 2016).
Targets: Fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation (including melasma), sun damage, acne scars.
Use in peels: Concentration determines depth — lower strengths for superficial pigmentation and texture, higher strengths for medium-depth resurfacing. Requires professional assessment due to risk of side effects and downtime.
| Ingredient | Peel Depth | Targets |
|---|---|---|
| Glycolic Acid | Superficial–medium | Fine lines, pigmentation, photodamage |
| Lactic Acid | Superficial | Dryness, mild wrinkles, uneven tone |
| Mandelic Acid | Superficial | Acne, pigmentation, sensitive/darker skin |
| Salicylic Acid | Superficial | Acne, oily skin, clogged pores |
| Polyhydroxy Acids | Very superficial | Sensitive skin, hydration, mild ageing |
| Retinoic Acid | Variable | Photodamage, pigmentation, fine lines |
| TCA | Superficial–medium | Wrinkles, photodamage, pigmentation, acne scars |
Key Takeaways
Anti-ageing ingredients work in different ways: exfoliation, hydration, antioxidant protection, or collagen stimulation.
Medical-grade peels use these ingredients at higher concentrations under the supervision of health professionals.
Suitability depends on skin type, medical history, and desired outcomes.
All peels carry risks such as irritation, pigmentation changes, or scarring, which must be discussed with a qualified professional.
References
Mukherjee, P. K., et al. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview. Clin Interv Aging, 1(4), 327–348.
Ditre, C. M., et al. (1996). Improvement of photodamaged skin with alpha-hydroxy acids: a controlled clinical trial. J Am Acad Dermatol, 34(2), 187–195.
Stiller, M. J., et al. (1996). A double-blind study of glycolic, lactic, and citric acids in photoaged skin. Dermatol Surg, 22(5), 449–454.
Dayal, S., et al. (2020). Comparative study of 45% mandelic vs 30% salicylic acid peels. J Cosmet Dermatol, 19(2), 393–399.
Kessler, E., et al. (2008). Comparison of alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid chemical peels in acne. Dermatol Surg, 34(1), 45–50.
Buchanan, P. J., et al. (2004). Polyhydroxy acids in cosmetic dermatology. Dermatol Surg, 30(6), 787–792.
Telang, P. S. (2013). Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J, 4(2), 143–146.
Bissett, D. L., et al. (2005). Topical niacinamide in ageing skin. Dermatol Surg, 31(7), 860–865.
Hettiarachchi, P., et al. (2016). Role of trichloroacetic acid in the treatment of skin conditions. J Cutan Aesthet Surg, 9(3), 152–158.
⚠️ Disclaimer: This blog is for educational purposes only. It does not replace personalised medical advice. Chemical peels are medical procedures that carry risks. Please consult a qualified health professional before considering any treatment.
